Products I Recommend For Hyperpigmentation as a Dermatologist

By Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton

Products I Recommend For Hyperpigmentation as a Dermatologist

By Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton

As a dermatologist, I treat hyperpigmentation on a daily basis at my practice. What is hyperpigmentation? Hyperpigmentation is an umbrella term that describes dark spots and patches in the skin including melasma. The underlying cause of your hyperpigmentation can vary and include things like acne, skin injury, and hormonal changes. Hyperpigmentation tends to be more common in darker skin because it has more melanin, which is what produces pigmentation in your skin. As a response to injury, including sun exposure, your melanocytes (cells that produce melanin), are activated and produce more melanin in order to protect your skin against damage. I like to recommend a multi-prong approach to tackling hyperpigmentation. One product is almost never enough. Here are a few types of products I always like to include in a skincare regimen targeted around evening your skin tone.

1. A vitamin c serum in the AM

No hyperpigmentation routine is complete without antioxidant protection to help mitigate UV damage. Vitamin C is beloved in the world of dermatology because it is supported by a large body of research and has multiple benefits for the skin. It has antioxidant properties to help reduce & treat oxidative damage to the skin; it helps reduce hyperpigmentation; it brightens the complexion; and it is essential for collagen production. A vitamin C serum can brighten your skin by reducing the overproduction of melanin, which is what causes hyperpigmentation.

My favorite of course is my FutureBright Vitamin C Serum because it is gentle enough for sensitive skin. Unlike pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), THD ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble derivative that penetrates the skin more effectively, allowing for deeper absorption and enhanced efficacy. It also includes tranexamic acid, which may help block dark spots from forming.

1. A vitamin c serum in the AM

No hyperpigmentation routine is complete without antioxidant protection to help mitigate UV damage. Vitamin C is beloved in the world of dermatology because it is supported by a large body of research and has multiple benefits for the skin. It has antioxidant properties to help reduce & treat oxidative damage to the skin; it helps reduce hyperpigmentation; it brightens the complexion; and it is essential for collagen production. A vitamin C serum can brighten your skin by reducing the overproduction of melanin, which is what causes hyperpigmentation.

My favorite of course is my FutureBright Vitamin C Serum because it is gentle enough for sensitive skin. Unlike pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), THD ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble derivative that penetrates the skin more effectively, allowing for deeper absorption and enhanced efficacy. It also includes tranexamic acid, which may help block dark spots from forming.

2. An AHA exfoliator 2-3x a week

While a vitamin C serum inhibits the formation of dark spots, chemical exfoliation tackles hyperpigmentation in a totally different way. It helps you shed that top layer of dull, discolored skin. The biggest mistake I encounter is the tendency to reach for abrasive scrubs to try to get rid of dark spots. Manual exfoliation can potentially cause micro injury to the skin and exacerbate skin issues. Instead, I recommend swapping your scrubs for a gentle chemical exfoliator with fruit acids like glycolic acid.I love the SuperFruit Exfoliating Tonic because it contains my favorite alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid at a gentle concentration and pH. It also contains licorice root extract, which helps fade dark spots. I recommend incorporating this into your routine 2-3x a week to start.

3. A retinoid product at night

Retinoids, from retinol to retinal with an A to prescription grade retinoids like tretinoin, can be helpful for fading hyperpigmentation because they promote skin cell turnover and also reduce epidermal melanin by blocking the transcription of tyrosinase, an enzyme that controls the production of melanin. With a retinoid, it's important to start low and slow. Those with sensitive skin may want to start with an over-the-counter retinol before building up to a prescription-strength retinoid like tretinoin. If you aren't able to tolerate a retinoid, then I suggest an azelaic acid product at night as an alternative.

4. A tinted sunscreen

Good luck getting rid of dark spots without wearing sunscreen! Any SPF is helpful for hyperpigmentation, but tinted sunscreen can be especially helpful if you have melanin-rich skin. Research has indicated that iron oxide, which is the ingredient that gives foundations and tinted sunscreens their color can provide additional protection against hyperpigmentation by blocking visible light. This effect can also be achieved by layering a coverage product like a foundation over your SPF.(4)

2. An AHA exfoliator 2-3x a week

While a vitamin C serum inhibits the formation of dark spots, chemical exfoliation tackles hyperpigmentation in a totally different way. It helps you shed that top layer of dull, discolored skin. The biggest mistake I encounter is the tendency to reach for abrasive scrubs to try to get rid of dark spots. Manual exfoliation can potentially cause micro injury to the skin and exacerbate skin issues. Instead, I recommend swapping your scrubs for a gentle chemical exfoliator with fruit acids like glycolic acid.I love the SuperFruit Exfoliating Tonic because it contains my favorite alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid at a gentle concentration and pH. It also contains licorice root extract, which helps fade dark spots. I recommend incorporating this into your routine 2-3x a week to start.

3. A retinoid product at night

Retinoids, from retinol to retinal with an A to prescription grade retinoids like tretinoin, can be helpful for fading hyperpigmentation because they promote skin cell turnover and also reduce epidermal melanin by blocking the transcription of tyrosinase, an enzyme that controls the production of melanin. With a retinoid, it's important to start low and slow. Those with sensitive skin may want to start with an over-the-counter retinol before building up to a prescription-strength retinoid like tretinoin. If you aren't able to tolerate a retinoid, then I suggest an azelaic acid product at night as an alternative.

4. A tinted sunscreen

Good luck getting rid of dark spots without wearing sunscreen! Any SPF is helpful for hyperpigmentation, but tinted sunscreen can be especially helpful if you have melanin-rich skin. Research has indicated that iron oxide, which is the ingredient that gives foundations and tinted sunscreens their color can provide additional protection against hyperpigmentation by blocking visible light. This effect can also be achieved by layering a coverage product like a foundation over your SPF.(4)